Journeys

Sarovara's Osho Dhyan Yatra 2006
A Spiritual Travel Journal

Dhyan = Meditation, Yatra = Travel or Pilgrimage.

A great way to start the new year of 2006.
I am in the Indian countryside at Osho Tirth Centre in Kuchwada, Madhya Pradesh half way between the cities of Jabalpur and Bhopal.
It all started as a feeling that came to me during meditations in the last months of 2005. I knew that I wanted to come to India again for my annual visit. For nearly
every year since Osho came back to Pune in 1987, I have made the trip to Osho Commune, I always love to go there to feel Osho's Energyfield and to meet up with
old friends for a yearly gossip and most importantly to go into Osho's Samadhi to meditate. But this year as I felt it was the right time to visit the place of my
Master's enlightenment.
Then this inspiration came like an inner voice telling me to go to Jabalpur - the city where Osho was enlightened. I checked the Oshoworld.com website had found a
phone number, but it didn't work. Then in a meditation I felt the urge to go to the village where Osho was born and I wondered that if the house he was born in was
still there, I would want to take care of it and make it into an Osho Meditation center.
Soon after I went to the Internet again and was surprised to see that Oshoworld.com had now newly listed a center in Kuchwada, Osho's birth village, and it had a
website! So I quickly went to the oshotirth.com website and was amazed. My idea has already been done! Later I found out that it was an Indian sannyasin who has
opened a center and 3 restaurants in Japan, had bought Osho's birth house and built a center close by. The website has photo's of the center with its own pyramid
Buddha Hall. Seeing them on the website I felt so excited, a feeling of "going home."

And so the time for the trip to India comes and I go to Pune as usual as a first base. Not expecting anything new, and yet I find it is still very nice. The main
attraction for me in Pune is to go into Osho's Samadhi to meditate for half an hour after lunch and another hour at 3pm.
It is always like going to recharge the batteries of inner silence.
After 10 days I have got my train ticket to Jabalpur, only a 19 hour journey, after many 24-hour or more journeys on trains in Russia and in India before this seems
like a short Trip but where to stay in a new city that I have not been to before? The Osho center phone number did not work, I found a reasonable hotel just 1km
from the station, it turns out to be a fortunate choice. I plan just to spend one day in Jabalpur, I want to see the tree under which Osho became enlightened, but I
don't know where it is. Luckily the hotel had an Internet connection, and I web-searched for "Osho Enlightenment Tree" I did not find out where it was, but I did
find the new phone number for the Osho Center. So I phoned and went to visit.
The center is 5km from the center of Jabalpur - a typical, dusty and noisy Indian city - being on the outskirts of the city feels a relief and the center in set in gardens
and has inexpensive accommodation, 200 - 400 Rs a day including food! There I met a sannyasin who could tell me where Osho's Tree was - it is located in a park
just a few minutes walk from the hotel I was staying in!

So the next morning I got directions from the hotel staff and found my way to the Bhawal Tal Park. I found the gate and paid the 2 Rupees entrance fee. I
remember from Osho's story that on the night of his enlightenment he felt drawn to the park, but it was locked and had to climb the gates. Still now after over 50
years the gates are locked at 8pm. As I entered the park I did not know which tree would be the Maulshree tree that Osho sat under on that fateful night on 21
March 1953. I remembered again from his discourse that he said he felt drawn to one tree, as if it shone out. I entered the park and it was immediately obvious to
me that one tree had a luminosity, as if it was shining with a mystical energy even in the bright morning sunshine. As I approached I saw it was protected by a
surrounding gate and a moat (but now green stagnant water) and I remembered some years ago an article in an Osho Times described how some local sannyasins
arranged for the protection of the tree as it then getting damaged. However the park is very well cared for now. I very happily walked around the tree, gazing at it in
wonder and in gratitude. I sat to look at it oblivious to the fact I sat in front of a bonfire of grass and leaves. Although I could not sit under the tree, I was still happy
to have "darshan" with it from a distance. Soon I went to sit on a platform in front of the moat, under a metal gate, it seemed made for the purpose; and it is the
only tree in the park thus honoured. I watched the tree, with the birds flying in and out from it branches and realized it is such a simple tree, not a grand Bodhi tree
that Buddha was enlightened under. Yet it continued to shine with grace and energy, it reminded me of Osho. I also saw meaning in its branches, a short trunk and
then 6 main branches. I got the message that Osho's vision has to branch out.

In the year immediately after Osho left the body, in the commune in Pune, I was amongst many who held onto the idealistic dream that Osho's Sannyas would not
split up into opposing camps. Yet exactly one year to the day, that Osho had left, the first major split happened, 5 members of the Inner Circle of 21 left
permanently to return to USA, tired of the conflict of visions they had in the Inner Circle. Now I can see it as a force of nature, for a tree to spread it leaves it needs
to branch out. From the main branches, smaller branches and smaller and further from the trunk until the green leaves sprout off. The beauty of this simple
Maulshree tree is that it still has fresh green leaves growing. Osho is the trunk and we are his leaves - one time I heard him say that we are the flowers on his tree
of the Sannyas movement. As I left the park, I noticed two other Maulshree trees, they did not have the same luminosity.

Later the same day I got on the train for the 3 hour train plus 2 hour taxi journey to Osho Tirth, Kuchwada. I have decided to stay for the maximum time I have on
my schedule, 18 days. I am greeted by 3 Indian Swamis and shown my room, a simple but clean room with bathroom and hot water from a gas cylinder outside, for
only 200 Rupees a day including all meals.
Osho Tirth is just a few minutes walk from the village of 3000 people (seems like most are children) it's a simple village over 3km along a dirt road off a quiet
country road, 6km from the busier road where the bus between Jabalpur and Bhopal run . It is set in the midst of a vast plain of green fields, with some hills a few
kms away. The view is 180 degrees of blue sky, I can see the sunrise and see the sunset. It reminds of Koregaon Park in 1980, when Prem's Restaurant was the
last building before a vast stretch of fields and I lived in a simple bamboo hut where ABC farms is now. In the village of Kuchwada, each house has cows and goats
and the kids coming running to greet me shouting "Osho, Osho." I caused a stir when I went into the village and bought cookies and handed them out to the hungry
and greedy kids.
Osho Tirth consists of several houses, I stay in Meera house which has 16 rooms, opposite is Krishna House with only 4 rooms of better quality but they are
occupied by the Japanese sannyasins from the Sakshin Commune in Japan that has built this place. They are here for 3 months to help build and open a hospital in
the village, just opposite to Osho's birth house. They wish to help the village in gratitude for it being the place where our Master arrived on this planet. The Indian
swamis are here to run the place and cook meals. Most of the time here, I am the only visitor. It is somewhat strange, that such a perfect place has so few visitors.
Occasionally a few guests come from Jabalpur or Bhopal.
On my first day I am lucky, Vijay, the friendly cook, gives me the key to the Buddha Hall Pyramid in which I spend most of the day sitting in silence. The pyramid is
painted Pale Blue (traditional in India for temples).The marble floors make it very cool inside. It is big enough for a hundred people, but I am happy to be the only
one!
But the Japanese, were not comfortable with me having the key and wanted to limit the amount of time I can be in the pyramid. Through some unclear
communication, I guess they are worried about lack of electrical power in the day. But eventually after a few days they get used to me wanting to meditate all the
time and we settle on a schedule. They do Dynamic themselves every morning at 6:30 then go off to work on the hospital for the day. I prefer to do Mandala in the
morning, sitting silent in the afternoon.
For the Mandala, I get the crazy idea to run to the main road and back, 7km in all, it takes me almost an hour, with a 5 min break half way. After 2 days my legs are
crippled! But I am determined to continue. After breakfast (Indian spicy rice, yuck! or sometimes Paratha, yum!) and shower I go for a mid morning Vipassana in
the garden by the side of the pyramid or on the roof of Meera House. Meditation + suntanning! Lunch at 2pm, Indian food, there's no choice but I slowly get used to
it and begin to enjoy it, it is somehow relaxing to have the same food three times a day with no alternative. After a couple of days I am in a routine of going into the
pyramid from 3pm - 5:30pm for Nadabrahma and Kundalini, I am the only one, even on the one day that 12 Indian sannyasins came to visit with their local guru - an
old Indian sannyasin they told me was enlightened. I can respect that someone is an old sannyasin and that they also knew Osho personally many years ago, but
that does not necessarily qualify them as enlightened. It is interesting to observe Indian sannyasins and I am reminded of what happened in Pune Commune in the
nineties.

At that time I saw that many Western sannyasins of Osho Commune were prejudiced against the Indians, but I also remember it was not easy to mix with them as
they kept to themselves. Many Indian sannyasins do not put much effort into meditation techniques, rather celebration is their way. They love to dance and sing.
That one day here was just like how celebration days used to be like in Pune, especially the traditional day to visit your master on the Full Moon of July - Guru
Poornima. Indian sannyasins would gather together and sings songs and play drums. Being close to an Indian village it is also obvious that Indians like noise! Even
a small village has a loudspeaker blaring out songs to Sita, Ram and Shiva. And their tradition means that in their subconscious they still think just to be in an
ashram is enough, or to just hang out and follow their leader around is enough. But Osho has created Dynamic and that suits them well. Osho often hit the Indians
for being lazy and remind them that his commune was not a traditional ashram. Each of us comes from a national conditioning, with its own negative side. But each
has a positive side also, for Indians it is easier for them to drop their logical mind and to connect to the master through devotion.
Now I see that each culture has their own way, and the branching of the tree of Osho Commune (the split in 2000 between the Westerners of the Inner Circle and
some of the Indian members) has created a strong branch of Osho centers in North India in Delhi, Dharamsala, Dehra Dun, Jabalpur and Kuchwada. Now, I would
like to see more Westerners coming to experience this branch of Sannyas. It is also refreshing to feel the Indian sannyasins devotional love for their Master - here
it is normal to wear a mala, or to have Osho's photos on the wall or to sing to Osho.
The Indian path of meditation is deeply rooted in devotion.
While Osho was in the body and for 10 years after, I saw that there was a co-existence of the Eastern and Western sannyasins in the Pune Commune, but then the
branching out was often been seen as a division. I feel if more Westerners come to the North Indian centers as part of their visit to India, they could feel like birds
with the freedom to fly to any branch of the tree of Sannyas.

Somedays my energy for running took me further, for 10km; then to a one day trip of walking and running to the nearby hills to sit there and do nothing, just enjoy
the view, the sunshine, the sight of eagles swooping by, even a mongoose strolled passed. Then before sunset a walk back through small villages, the locals are
shocked to see me, it is obviously very rare for them to see a Westerner but the kids instantly shout "Osho, Osho" and I politely answer the villagers questions
with a Namaste.

I went to sit silently in "Osho House" actually his grandparent's house, where his mother came to give birth to him. Although Osho has never given any
encouragement for preserving places connected to his past and in some sense it does seem like it is now a museum, or could become like the Christian's worship of
Jesus' birthsite, I still wanted to come and experience it for myself. On the first day of being here, I was informed that as it was holiday the hospital would be closed,
so no-ine would be going to the Osho House either. But I just went into the village by myself, and instantly knew which building it was. Very simple and old and now
locked up behind gates. After some days I joined the visiting sannyasins from Jabalpur as Osho House was opened for them. I sat down in silence in the Birth-room,
which is facing onto the main path of the village. I imagined it was quieter 75 years ago, but still then it would have been the main house in the village, with everyone
passing by. During my meditation I connect more to the energy of Osho's mother and begin to feel how she felt being pregnant with Osho. I remembered the stories
I read in Osho's book "Glimpses of a Golden Childhood" how his mother already began to feel he would be a special child. In that small room I tuned into what I
felt were her dream images of her about to give birth to a potential buddha.
The house is very old and somewhat fragile, so it is not open all the time, but you can ask to visit. It is small and amazingly simple. Seeing the house, the village,
the countryside - the people, all so simple and natural. Unfortunately modern times have given us so many ways to be less simple and quiet. I feel that Osho chose
such a natural place to be born in, so his roots could have such a natural nourishment and less conditioning. In these days I feel the environment I am in greatly
affects me and my state of meditation. And I feel more nourished in the countryside and easier to meditate and be silent there.
Another time I went meditate in the house alone and felt undisturbed by the noise from outside, those few hours passed quickly and I moved
into a very deep inner silence. So although the village is not totally silent, it still feels more silent than a city. Coming back to Pune after my trip to Kuchwada, I see
that Pune is now a modern Indian City, with Koregaon Park being a trendy area. With more cars, more shops, it has the convenience of Internet shops, Pizza Hut
and Osho Resort fits in with it. Yet on my first day back in Pune I feel a strange feeling, I began to feel the gnawing in my stomach of loneliness! It is interesting,
that I was more alone in Kuchwada but never felt lonely, now in this big city the feeling comes. And I realize it is the feeling of a modern city, the more people, the
quicker everyone runs, they are running away from themselves. The loneliness disappears when I meditate. But the atmosphere around is not so nourishing.
However in the Resort, the atmosphere is supportive for friendship and enjoying and also for meditating. I feel it has been good to experience both places, Pune
with the energy of the Master having been there so long and still the main meeting point for sannyasin friends from around the world, but also Kuchwada, with its
quieter countryside and an available meditation center.

Osho Tirth is a commune that lacks one thing - people! It reminds me of the movie 'Field of Dreams' and the key expression "If you build it, they will come." In
Osho's birth village, it has been build, it is just waiting for us to come. Tirth (or Teerth) means a place of pilgrimage. It is funded by the Osho Sakshin Commune in
Japan and its 3 "Nataraj" Restaurants in Tokyo, the man behind it all is an Indian sannyasin called Satyatirth Bharti.

If you want to go to Kuchwada by yourself here is some practical info:
Osho Tirth, Kuchwada, Raisen, Madya Pradesh, India. www.oshotirth.com (photos on website) Tel: 07486.244402 or 280120 ask for Vijay.
To get to Kuchwada: Jhelum Express train runs daily between Delhi and Pune, get out at Bhopal which is about half way.
Class 2AC is comfortable. If coming from Delhi or Mumbai, there are special reservation offices for Foreigners in the Railway station. If coming from other Indian
cities, inc. Pune you need to book early, possibly a month in advance. I found a travel agent down German Bakery Lane opposite "Happy Home" that for 500RS
extra got a ticket within a week.
From New Delhi to Bhopal or from Mumbai to Bhopal, there are several trains a day, the schedule can be found on the Indian Railways website.
From Bhopal the taxi ride of 3 - 4 hours costs around 1500Rs. Local buses also run regularly, but are crowded, noisy and very uncomfortable, get out at Khargone
at Osho Tirth Trust Petrol Pump. (Yes, they have their own Gas station and will build a shopping mall there too!) Phone them in advance to ask if they can arrange
for their car to pick you up if it is available. They also have some rooms for overnight stay. Tel: 07486.21868
To get to Jabalpur: Trains on Mon, Wed, Fri from Pune.
From Jabalpur to Kuchwada: Train to Piparia then bus or taxi for 68km. Bargain with taxi drivers, they will demand a return fare. The usual fare should be 700 Rs,
they'll ask for 1500Rs. I went for 900 Rs.
The website www.oshotirth.com has a map that you can use to give the driver directions, if they don't know. The last 3km is down a dirt road but it is well
sign-posted at the turns.

Mobile phones only sometimes work there, more regular signal is from the main road 3km away. To buy a sim card in India, give a xerox of passport and visa to
shop in a larger city. 'Airtel' works all over India.
Bring your own toiletries inc. toilet paper and towel. Maroon and white robes. Jumper and leggings, it can be cold in the winter evening, but hot in daytime sun.
Bring a water bottle - clean drinking water is available. Sunhat and sunscreen lotion.

In Jabalpur, a good hotel is The Samdariya, a standard room is 1000 Rs per night, the rooms are a bit old but the service is very good. The desk staff can arrange
train tickets or taxi. Also there is one computer for free Internet access. The hotel is just 10 min walk from Osho's Tree in the Bhawal Tal Park. The Osho center is
called Amritdham oshoamritdham@indiatimes.com www.oshoamritdham.com Tel: 0761.237.1906 the 5km rickshaw ride from Jabalpur city center will cost around
50Rs. just ask for "Osho Ashram"

Sarovara 17.01.2006